ABC's on Cruelty-Free

When it comes to the ease of applying makeup from foundation to shadow, the quality of the makeup brush can make it or break it and that said; the hair is what makes the "grade".
I have come across many who gasp at the mention of the types of hair a cosmetic brush can be made from. Whether it be squirrel, badger, to sable. Personally I am a big fan of the squirrel- hair makeup brush. So I hear the "Awwes", and "Ohhs", often when people want to know why the brush is so divinely soft. For the devout vegetarian there are some well made synthetic brushes out there
(Taklon and Nylon) but nothing has come close to the versatility and silky touch of squirrel. To also educate a few on the fact that the higher the "grade" of hair the better chance it is Cruelty-Free. As with squirrel, kolinsky sable, and mink, ask if they are "First-cut" hair, which means they were sheared from the tips of the fur(not harming the animal), and is truly the softest to the touch. Lower grade brushes are typically created with "blunt-cut" hairs coming from the lower cut of the fur, which are more course and can feel scratchy or prickly to the touch.

These days thank goodness one doesn't have to pay an arm and a leg for a nice set of makeup brushes, but as a collector and admirer of the beauty and function of the brush, it can become quite the investment.

Here is a list of hair-types from highest grade to lowest:
Squirrel
Kolinsky Sable
Mink
Badger
Red sable
Weasle
Pony
Goat
Pahmi
Taklon/Nylon

Beauty Tip Tuesday - Feb 16, 2010

Product Knowledge 101:

Don't get "sold" by a cosmetic salesperson.
Who doesn't have drawers or boxes full of makeup and skincare you hardly touch?
Why is this?
Because you were told it would do something for you, yet failed to meet your expectations.

Two top requested recommendations in cosmetics:

Foundation & Mascara

Foundation:

Mineral makeup: Number One Myth...
Because it says "mineral" doesn't make it a miracle. Commonly used in much of today's powders and foundations, the minerals are mainly derived from mica, and zinc oxides. Finely ground to create a temporary "glow" to the skin. It's what happens in an hour that makes all the difference. What happens when our face introduces sebum to the mix? Separation, clogging, and discoloration in skin tone. None of these powders provide a nutrient to your skin so why mask your face with it?

From soy to sea, there's nothing better for me!

Finding a foundation created from soy(T.Le Clerc), or seaweed botanics(Sue Devitt Studio, Vincent Longo water canvas) are a whole other story. These prime ingredients synthesize with our skins natural, daily, needs and functions instead of conflicting. Creating a more smooth and flawless coverage as well as a "healthy" finish!

Mascara:

Mascara madness: From CG to D&G:
Mascara packaging, (like the toothbrush), shape shifts almost daily. What's inside has hardly changed since it was invented(via 1913; Maybelline). Our makeup pros have experienced dozens of mascaras from Serge Lutens $65 mascara to Cover Girls $8 LashBlast. The only big difference is scent and the shape of the comb. Fragrances are an issue for many in light of allergies, and since mascara is practically in the eye most companies are savvy to this concern. Search for conditioning ingredients such as vitamin E(tocopherol), bees wax, soy, or Argan which provide at least some nutrients to the lashes. Otherwise, all mascaras contain preservatives to kill bacteria and prolong the life of the product.(note: throw it away after 3 months or experience flaking, itchy eyes, or even worse an eye infection). As for the shape of the lash comb; they cater to the varied shapes and lengths of our lashes. If one needs length they may want a sleek, slim-toothed comb, and if one desires fullness, look for a thick bristled comb. Last but not least an essential tool all mascara wearers should possess, a needle-toothed lash separator(Chanel). To comb out any clumps as well as shape the direction of the lash. Here's to a more enlightened cosmetic experience!

Beauty Tip Tuesday - February 9

Perfectly Smokey Eyes!

Why smokey?
This is the number one most requested look of my sixteen years as a make-up artist. Women of all ages desire this never dated, sultry, mysterious visage, yet so few have the confidence in applying it!

With the right tools, it can be done.:
* Find a deep, soft black pencil eyeliner (Sue Devitt eye intensifier, MAC eye kohl).
*A short soft bristled smudge brush (Bobbi Brown eye smudge brush, Stila #15).
* A quality, complimentary eyeshadow to the eye color (Shu Uemura, MAC, Stila).
* A neutral highlight shadow for the brow arch (Bobbi Brown, MAC, Stila, Shu Uemura).
* A soft blending brush (MAC 222 tapered blending brush, Stila #9).
* A needle toothed lash comb (Chanel).
* A deep black, quality, waterproof mascara (Shu Uemura, Serge Lutens, Loreal Double Extend).

Begin by lacing the inner lining of the eye with the the soft, dark, black liner. All the way around the eye (as long as you're not allergic, you won't clog any pores or get an eye infection if you keep your pencil sterile and sharpened to a soft point). Sweep the complimentary shadow across the main lid (warm bronzes for blue eyes, cool mauve for brown eyes). With the same black liner softly line into and slightly above the lash line, upper and lower lashes (for more a "cat" like shape thicken the liner at the outer edges and always sweep up and out towards temples). Blend shadow into the lash line. Wash the highlighter or neutral tone shade across the brow bone and into the shadow with the blending brush. Blend until there are NO lines and NO edges. Finish with plenty of mascara and separate the lashes with a needle-toothed comb. A "magic-touch" of concealer below the eye to smooth, clean, and perfect this look whether for a sexy night on the town, or just a rousing trip to the grocery store! NO RULES BABY! Enjoy!